We were up before the sun, hiking in first light but we weren’t the only early risers. One group was packing up their plane for an early take-off.

On our way down to the river we read a FS posting that said the Salt Creek fire was a proscribed burn. We saw smoke from this fire all day as he eventually hiked higher than Salt Creek.

We were also up before the Selway River rafters and kayakers as we passed their camp on our way to Three Links. Our trail was the trail that Packer Pete uses for supply runs with is horse and mule string. It was rocky but clear and easy to follow. Pete had said that the pack string couldn’t go up 62 Ridge, though.

We ate lunch in the very warm sun at Three Links, filtered water since the ridge would be dry and set off up the switchbacks. We began to understand why even the mules couldn’t go up the ridge…too many blowdowns. The terrain was too steep for them to go around the blow downs. I missed a switchback in the brush and continued a short distance around the ridge thinking that the trail had eroded. I realized my mistake when I reach a vertical rock cliff.

Farther up the ridge the brush had overtaken the trail. We had been moving quickly covering the miles but our pace slowed to a crawl as we laboriously pushed our way through the stiff plants. As the ridge crested we lost the trail. I saw a small tree hacked to pieces. From the distance I thought it was trail but after I made my way to it. I saw that someone had taken out their frustration on the poor tree.

As we looked for a suitable tent site Ken found a piece of trail. We have a good start for the morning after a night on a VERY lumpy, slanted camp site.

This day ranks #1 as the all-time frustrating, aggravating, horrible backpacking day! We found the trail, then lost it again for good. We voted this among the 3 worst trail segments we have ever been on. The other two segments have been fixed. Let's hope this one gets some attention.

We started with trail that even got easier to see for a while. In fact, it was good enough that we just cruised right past our unmarked junction. When we figured out what we did we went back, found the junction and stepped onto faint, overgrown train that took us through an earlier forest fire. Burned, dead trees were across the former trail and rampant vegetation further hid the trail. Each time we ran out of trail we went back to where we had last thought that ground looked like trail. Eventually that became futile. We made our way, through bushes, over or around or even through downed trees on steep terrain as we headed for the next gps waypoint. We were optimistic each time that we would pick up the trail at the waypoint. The going was rough and slow.

We camped by a creek, still without trail. The day had been hot, our sweat glued soot to our skin, tree crossings had poked a hole in my shoe, scraped my legs under my pant legs, tired me to my bones.

We had a second night on a lumpy, slanted, sooty site. I hope a snag doesn’t fall on our tent during the night.

At Moose Creek Landing Strip Packer Pete asked us how committed we were to the ICT route. Now I think that was his tactful way of suggesting that we not hike this route, that we go north directly from Moose Creek LS.

We struggled all morning to get to the confluence of Rhoda and Grotto Creeks by following waypoints, gps traces but no trail. We hiked a whopping 3.5 miles in the first 6 hours, then we found trail 620. I told myself that I was going to get my affairs in order if I get out of here.

The distance from Moose Creek Lnading Strip to our next resupply is only 45 miles. That is usually an easy two day hike. We are now on our third day and if we don’t cover some distance we are going to run out of food which has never happened to us. A scenario of putting up our tent at the confluence and waiting for search and rescue popped into my mind. We would have water but no food.

We were discouraged at lunch. We dropped our packs and went separate ways looking for a good route. Ken went back to Rhoda Creek to filter water and on his way back to his pack thought a piece of ground looked like trail. It was! We were on our way, slowly at first pushing through creekside vegetation.

The day got better as we covered more distance and eventually the trail got better even though there were lots of downed trees. Just getting out of the bleak burned area was good.

Humor was provided when we got to the junction with “Unmaintained Two Lakes Trail” that our guide indicated that we hike. Hmmm. The “maintained trail” that we had been hiking wasn’t cleared. Should we risk the frustration and slow pace on a posted “unmaintained” trail? It turned out to have been recently cleared by esquestrians. The smooth trail gently led us past beautiful meadows, scenic lakes sheltered by picturesque rocky mountains all in the golden glow of late day sun.

We had spectacular views from our smooth tent site. I made camp while Ken got water. I cooked the first of our two extra dinners that we picked up at Moose Creek. Life was good and before we run out of food we…

If we hike really, really hard and get good trail we can make it to our Wilderness Gateway resupply today. We were up early and moving well but stopping frequently for gorgeous photo opportunities. Even the lightning, thunder and rain that arrived by 9am didn’t ruin our cheerful moods.

We dashed on, chatting about the scenery and lunch plans. We climbed, stopping near the top. I cooked our last dinner for our lunch. That was the last of our food…it was only water for the rest of the way.

While we ate and gazed at the scenery we noticed a small fire that had probably been ignited by the morning’s lightning. Ken marked a gps waypoint so we could tell the FS when we got to Hwy 12.

We finished our climb and found our first anemones, mop-heads, on the ICT. Then we crested the mountain and the trail went through a burned area. We both remarked how fresh the smoke smell seemed – and saw another small fire just below our trail.

We had no snacks so the climb up Huckleberry Butte was beginning to seem like a PUD, a pointless up and down. We sat for a short rest and a badger waddled down the trail! Right after our rest we saw our third fire just starting. As we gazed down from the Butte to Huckleberry Creek far, far below a FS plane circled overhead taking note of the three fires.

After the Butte our trail got wide and recently cleared. Trail Crew had been in the area. At dusk we hear whoops and hollers, then saw several tents. I thought they were having too much fun to be trail crew so I didn’t go tell them a hiker thank you.

We raced on, eager to be down. Rain clouds returned and the evening got very dark. We were unwilling to hike in the rain in the dark. A few miles from the campground we threw up our tent at the end of a switchback and climbed in our sleeping bags. We hadn’t eaten since our early lunch but neither of us mentioned food. Heavy, pelting rain arrived with more nearby lightning.

Finally!!! This was a killer leg and we will have more to say about it later.

Both of our shoes are destroyed; our water filter is almost dead, we ran out of food yesterday after a couple of days of short rations. Just after bedtime last night we were awakened by a light and sound show. Soon it started to rain and it continued much of the night.

Tonight more rain is expected - but we are in Missoula, MT in a motel. Tomorrow we will drive to Mullan to retrieve new shoes and water filter. We replaced other gear at REI this evening.

Day 34 continues:
We got up when it stopped raining this morning, not in a hurry to hike because we only had a few miles to resupply. With no food for breakfast morning chores were quick.

We met Robin Kohls at the stable. He drove our food in and had the campground host hold the boxes. He got our brownies, opened them, realized his mistake and resealed them.

After drying out at the picnic pavilion we stopped at the host site. Janet's brownies were our first food after all those miles!

The host drove us to a straight part of Hwy 12 so we could catch a ride to Missoula, MT. The plan is to rent a car so we can drive to Mullan, ID for our shoes and filter cartridge. The route from Wilderness Gateway to Mullan is too long and complex to try directly. We rode to Missoula with Christian and his uncle who drove us all the way to the airport car rental.

We are at a motel for showers and laundry. Tomorrow we GottaDrive.