If you ever wanted to visit a dude ranch then the ICT is the trail for you. We were having lunch at Alkali Creek when cattle with horns ran down the dry creek just a feet away from us. I grabbed my camera as the cowboy and horse galloped by at full speed yelling to his working dogs who were at a full run. Exciting!

After lunch we followed up what looked like an old wagon trail up and throough a vertical lava wall ...fabulous, fun hiking. We crossed two springs that were flowing well. Wildflowers grew in a solid swath that made crossing the stream dicey guesswork. We didn't filter water because we knew that there was more water on the other side of the mountain.

As we crested the ridge on Bennett Mountain Road we found a herd of sheep. We just missed the sheep being herded up our sand road. We only got to walk through the results. The herd was enormous and the two tired dogs chasing stragglers stopped to briefly greet us. Both dogs were the exact dirty beige that the sheep were. I wondered if there was a reason for the coloring.

We've climbed 4100' since leaving Hammett yesterday. The day is pleasantly cool, we've left the fields behind and have reached the quaking aspens and pines. Water is frequently available from small streams and springs but all of it is fouled and trampled from livestock. We walked much later than we intended looking for pleasant water. At dusk we gave up and cooked with water we didn't want to drink straight.

A small herd of cows visited our camp last night but left as soon as they smelled our shoes.

I wore my fleece hat and jacket when we started out this morning. Views in all directions were so gorgeous...every day has better scenery than the day before and the first day was good!

The best was our walk this morning through Castle Rocks. Our mileage drops as our number of photo ops rises. We had a grand total of 8 miles by lunch!

We had the most incredible experience this morning! We we sitting on a small log facing a two foot wide stream. A doe bounded out of the bushes across the stream and was face to face with us. She twisted mid-air and missed my left shoulder by inches. I was sure I was going to be trampled. Ken pointed to his right side and we watched a grey wolf lope after the doe!

Our trail today went up gullies and over mountains several times...hard work. The trail was a dirt bike mess. We tried to walk the v-shaped trail with one foot in the V and one foot on the shoulder scooter style. Slow! We tried a foot on each shoulder. Awkward! We tried heel in front to like swivel-hipped runway models. Ridiculous! Hiking was just hard and slow.

Ken took dozens of flower photos today. This area couldn't be more exuberantly vegetated with flowers and an odd mix of sage and conifers with their contrasting greens.

We stopped early at Willow Creek FS Campground. There are sadly no showers. We'll have an early night to get ready for more big climbs tomorrow. I am eager to get to the Wilderness. We should cross the ICT's highpoint at 9300' tomorrow.

Early this morning we left civilization - the CG picnic table, privy, and unused firepit - and walked to a floral fantasyland. This area of Sawtooth National Forest burned last August and moisture from one winter produced an abundance of flowers and berries. Birds, butterflies, deer and marmots are back, too.

As we approached the Mattingly Pass we found a snow field. We dropped our packs for obligatory high point photo. 

After descending to the Middle Fork of the Boise River we found a clump of trees to camp in.

Plinks of raindrops on our tent woke us. Ken quickly pulled in gear sitting outside of the tent that we wanted to keep dry. That was the extent of the rain.

This morning started with another climb but only 1800'. The trail is following North Fork of Ross Fork Creek (yesterday was the South Fork). Trees didn't burn here and terrain is steeper so the flowers are sparse.

We were scolded awake by an angry territorial squirrel so we got up and packed all our wet gear. A few minutes down the trail we crossed the South Fork of the Boise River for the first of five times. I have been wanting to rinse out my shorts. I got my wish as the deep turbulent river agitated, then rinsed my shorts while I slowly made my way across. My feet were so cold they ached. It was one of the deeper, colder fords that we've hiked. Fortunately, we were traveling upstream so subsequent fords were shallower.

We dried as we climbed only to get our feet wet again as we hiked on snow patches hiding the trail between a series of lakes. Several times we had to scout for the trail exiting the snow.

Late in the day we talked to two members of a Sierra Club backpacking trip. Our first fellow backpackers chatted with us briefly. Their campsite was along the Payette River. We saw many stretches of the river that were running swiftly over polished stone.

Camp is in a horse camp near the river tonight so it will probably be damp and cold.

Showers! Laundry! Meals by a chef!

We hiked a beeline to Grandjean. A half hour after starting on the trail we saw a camp and a few minutes later talked to two backpackers that were breaking camp.

Our hike today had some of everything: tiny creek hops, big creek fords, open rocky areas, forested areas and hillsides with seeps that were chest high flower gardens. A small herd of elk scurried off ahead of us. Hiking would have been faster if we hadn't stopped for so many pictures.

Grandjean is a backcountry lodge at the end of a dirt road. We talked to outfitters, mountain bikers, equestrians, other backpackers, fishermen and camping families. We all agree that this the most gorgeous setting with similarities to the Sierra but without all the people.

The sign on our cabin read "Fish stories told here." We wanted to cross out the "Fish" and write in "Hiking". The cabins and tents were full of families enjoying the forest and the swimming pool. 

This is our first bed in eleven days. Then we...